Monday, 27 May 2013

Hairing the Model Horse - Part Two

This is part two of the tutorial on how I hair my model horses. If you have any questions, please comment below and I will help as best as I can! I have one final blog post after this which will be put up soon, so stay tuned!

Hairing the Model Horse Part Two – the mane

The victim, a different model this time:



Method:
1. You should have your horse with its tail all haired nicely with part one of this tutorial, although of course you can always do the mane first if you wish. I like to work from the end of the horse to the front, as it also re-enforces the fact that you start from the bottom of where you wish to hair and work up.

This model is trenchless. If you do want a trench, you can either use apoxie putty and build ‘walls’ either side of the neck to create the trench and then heavily sand down the sides once dry so it is all flush, or if you have a dremel (this is easier) there is a little add-on you can use which is like a disk, use this and you can ‘cut’ into the neck. The hair is prepared as in part one of this tutorial.



Here is a photo of the mohair clumps at the ready:



2. The first bit of mohair to be attached is the trickiest with manes. When hairing the mane, all of the mohair should be cut at a slant that is concordant with the neck itself. Then you attach; when it comes to attaching you want to put the mohair parallel to the neck and press down. Sometimes just using superglue is easier here, as it sticks and dries quicker. You want to put the superglue on the hair though, and not on the horse, as it could get messy and ruin your finishwork! But I did use PVA glue on this particular model, so if you don't have superglue then it is still possible.




3. After the very first clump has been laid down, the following pieces of mohair need to be placed around halfway on the original mohair piece because otherwise when your horse is finished the hairing will not look natural and you will have lots of ugly gaps in the mane. If you are hairing the horse with PVA, I would always suggest to place two or three clumps on the neck and put them in place before having a five minute break; this gives the PVA glue a chance just to make the hair stick to the body of the horse a bit more, and so when more mohair is added the others won’t fall off/slip. With superglue, this doesn't apply as much although little breaks are always helpful to make sure everything has dried and so you can keep concentration.




4. Remember not to brush it or mousse it until you have finished hairing the whole of the neck and forelock and waiting for it to dry for about twenty minutes or so with PVA (it will probably still be wet in this time but it should be brushable if you are careful – none of this ‘you must wait 24 hours’ business... Let’s face it, none of us do!) otherwise you will risk some clumps falling out and it isn’t a pretty sight. I know it is tempting to brush and style when in progress but it is much easier to do it when the whole neck is complete. If you are careful though you can cut the clumps that are on the neck to the length you want it roughly, so then you can visualise the end point - I know that this can help me sometimes if the clumps I have attached are too long.

5. When it is time for the forelock, it is the exact same principles for the mane, only you can cut it right across instead of at a slant – sometimes I even make a triangle at the top and place it under some mane hair, to make it more natural. You can also make it blend naturally from the mane to the forelock but just carrying on with the mohair and rounding it off to form a forelock at the end. When doing the forelock it is usually ideal to carry the PVA glue onwards to the top of their forehead, just beyond the poll; in real life horses’ forelocks as such.

If you want a bridle path, however, I tend to put a bit of glue where the path is meant to be and cut some hair into very fine pieces. I then sprinkle the hair over the path.



6. Once it has dried and is brushable, brush with the toothbrush to rid of any loose hair and then using scissors, cut upwards into the mane for your desired length. If hair is sticking out in weird places (it is on my example) then, as in part one of the tutorial, get some damp tissue and lay it on the neck for some time. After that, get the mousse out and start styling!

Here is the finished horse:




I miss that horse... He was lovely if I do say so myself!

I will post the final edition to this soon. I made the last bit of the tutorial a good few weeks back, it isn't linked to these two sections at all but I thought I should make it to post on here sometime soon. Seeing as I have just put this tutorial up, it seems like a good time to post it! So look out for it.

Clare

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